Succulents that spent summer outside on a patio or balcony need a plan before the first frost. Most popular succulents are not frost hardy, and a single freezing night can turn them to mush. Here is how to make the move smoothly.
When to bring them in
Move tender succulents indoors when night temperatures start dropping below about 40°F (4°C). Hardy types such as many sedums and sempervivums (hens and chicks) can stay outside in cold climates, especially in the ground.
Check for pests first
Outdoor plants often carry hitchhikers. Before bringing anything in:
- Inspect leaf joints and the undersides of leaves for mealybugs (white cottony spots) and aphids.
- Look at the soil surface for fungus gnats or ants.
- Spray off dust and insects with a gentle stream of water and let the plant dry.
- Treat any mealybugs with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
Find the brightest spot
Light is the biggest challenge indoors. A south-facing window is best, followed by west. Even then, winter light is weak, and succulents may stretch toward the glass — a process called etiolation. A small LED grow light on a timer for 12–14 hours a day makes a big difference.
Water much less
Indoors in winter, most succulents grow slowly or rest. Cooler temperatures and lower light mean soil stays wet longer. Water thoroughly only when the soil is completely dry, which may be every three to four weeks. When in doubt, wait.
Watch the temperature
Keep plants away from heating vents and radiators, which can dry and scorch leaves, and away from cold drafts near doors. Most succulents are comfortable between 50 and 75°F (10–24°C).
Expect some changes
Many succulents lose their bright summer colors indoors and turn greener. This is normal and the color returns with strong spring sun. Do not fertilize during winter.
Moving back outside
In spring, reintroduce plants to the outdoors gradually, just like hardening off seedlings, to avoid sunburn.
Looking for plants that thrive on a sunny windowsill? Explore our succulents.

